1. Traveling by bus to Pucon, Full Cama style: The bus system here is extremely well-organized. Our first long-haul bus trip was from Santiago to Pucon on one of the big companies, Tur-Bus. For those of you picturing old beater buses with livestock and chickens, think again. Many of the buses are very new, and you can travel in style. There are different buses for different classes of service. There is classico, which is your basic bus seat, with a little more leg room than most airplanes, and some pretty comfortable seats... There is semi-cama... think business class airplane seats on most US airlines... very plush, and very comfortable. Amy and I opted for the Full Cama... we´re talking seats that lay completely flat and turn into full-on beds. They even have separate matresses that the conductor lays out for you on top of your flat bed, with pillows, blankets, and a fresh pair of socks. Sure it costs a little more... but pop in your headphones, watch your favorite american films dubbed over in spanish, and wake up refreshed after a great night´s sleep, 12 hours later in Pucon.
2. Geo-Termas, near Huerquehue... What to do after a long and difficult first day of trekking carrying too much weight? Head for the hot springs, which were a 5 mile day-hike away. We tried to make this into a trail run... but that wasn´t really happening... particularly on the way back. But nothing soothes those aching muscles like a good soak.
3. La Maga Restaurant, Pucon... After 3 days in Huerquehue, we were ready to spoil ourselves when we got back to Pucon. The entry for La Maga in our Lonely Planet says something to the effect of ´when you really need a steak after trekking in the wilderness, there is no choice but La Maga.´ They served up the biggest steaks we had ever seen... and Dave has eaten his share of big steaks. These things were about 5 inches thick and took up the entire plate. Washed down with a lovely bottle of Chilean red, and you´ve enjoyed a good meal.
4. Tren del Sur, Puerto Montt... Our favorite hostel. Funky, artsy, little boutique hotel, which calls itself a hostel. All the furniture in the hotel is made from refurbished railroad ties, and many other pieces of abandoned railroad. It wasn´t that much more expensive than a regular hostel, but every little detail was just perfect. Very out of place in rough-and-tumble Puerto Montt, which is a regional transportation hub... To give you a sense, Lonely Planet says the best thing Puerto Montt has going for it is the large number of options there are to leave. And yet, here´s this total diamond in the rough, the Tren del Sur.
5. Afrigonia, Puerto Natales... Easily one of our top 5 meals, ever. The night before our big trek in Torres del Paine (and saying farewell to friends Carly and David), the four of us headed out to Afrigonia -- African-Chilean fusion cuisine. (Yes, you read that correctly -- a tale of love -- a husband and wife team -- she´s a Chilean who was living in Zambia because her father worked with the copper mining industry there, and he´s a Zambian chef... they fell in love and ran off together, to Patagonia). Anyway... back to the meal. 4 hours, easy, from start to finish. Appetizers, Main courses, and Desserts. 3 bottles of Chilean wine (2 Carmeneres, 1 Sauvignon Blanc). And, once Dave bonded with the chef over a shared love for Southern Africa, and dropped the fact that it was our honeymoon... a round of champagne on the house. Dave´s favorite español phrase, by the way, is "este es nuestra lune de miel¨... meaning, ´this is our honeymoon´... which goes a surprisingly long way here:). Back to Afrigonia... meal was so good, and we were so intoxicated, that we had to postpone our planned departure for Torres del Paine the next morning. One of our top 5 meals, ever.
6. Ochos Huevos, Torres del Paine... Okay, this one is a little bit different than the others... Our ochos huevos cost us 200 chilean pesos per egg... for a total of about $3.20 US. But you have no idea how extravagant and indulgent 8 fresh eggs are after 7 days of backpacking and eating dehydrated foods. We bought the eggs upon arrival, lovingly packed them in our tupperware bowls for safe storage during the evening, barricaded them in the corner of our tent, surrounded by soft, cushiony materials... and cooked up a feast in the morning. We fried up some spicy salami, added in some cheese, and scrambled up some deliciousness. Top it off with a carton of juice for 1800 chilean pesos (another $3.60 US) and 2 cups of nescafe instant coffee (200 chilean, or $0.40 USD), and you have yourself one extravagant back-country breakfast.
7. El Asador Patagonica, Puerto Natales... After 9 days of backpacking, you don´t want to go for the over-indulgent meal too quickly. That first night out, we were far too tired and taste-deprived to appreciate a fine meal right away... So you wait another 24 hours... you plan carefully... you make your reservation... you skip lunch... and go to the place that advertises itself as ´meat specialists´. Amy ordered a a fillet steak, Dave ordered the Lamb special. When Dave´s plate arrived, it must have had about 4 sheep on it. It was a huge plate of meat... tender, delicious meat. Amy´s fillet steak was no slouch either. Don´t worry -- not a bite remained of either. Add in an appetizer of garlic sausages and grilled vegetables, a bottle of your favorite Chilean Syrah, a dessert entitled chocolate fantasia... and you´ve had yourself yet another fine meal. (Editor´s note: it was so much meat that Dave is now considering becoming a vegetarian... as long as he is still allowed to wrap his vegetarian meals in bacon). 
Thanks, Fongs! We love you!
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