Victory for the People!

Hola, loyal followers!  Warm greetings to all... and thanks for the comments!  Alas, no time for proper blog entries just now.  We´re off to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine for a 10-day trek -- our longest of the trip.  It should be a real highlight of our time in Patagonia (but to be honest, what hasn´t been?).  But just a few quick updates, to tide you over...

On Friday last week, we set sail on the Navimag for a 4-day ferry journey from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales.  The ferry is an important means of moving cargo (and some tourists) from north to south, around the Patagonian ice fields which divide southern Chile from the northern part of the country.  In winter, we hear they move livestock as well.  We felt like the livestock to some extent on the boat -- about 150-200 tourists from all over, making the ship feel a bit like a cross between the united nations, the love boat, and stowing away on a freighter.

Big highlight of the trip was surprising our friends Carly and David (who live and work in Paraguay), by getting assigned to a shared cabin with them.  We just happened to both be traveling in Patagonia at the same time and were able to coordinate our plans with theirs.  Other highlights including beautiful Patagonian fjords and narrow channels, several dolphin sightings, a rough night in the open waters of the Pacific, Disco Bingo night on the Navimag, and brokering international friendships through our favorite travel game, pass the pigs / passe los porcos.  (I know, porcos means pork, not pigs... but it sounds funnier).

The real excitement began upon arrival in Puerto Natales. Let´s just say we´re really glad that the big news in Chile the last week was not big enough news to make it up north (i.e., into the realm of nervous parents).  For the last week, the whole south of the country has been on strike, blockading access into and out of all towns in the Pategonian regions.  They were protesting against a proposed gas price increase (heating gas, not petrol for cars) of 17%.  In the past, this region has been heavily subsidized in gas, due to the long, cold winters.  (Note for Janet:  please note the use of the past tense, `were` on strike... the strike is now over:)

We pulled up to port with the ship´s captain honestly not knowing what to expect.  We were greeted by some large and exuberant crowds of people... not entirely clear whether they were happy to see us or not.  Some of their representatives were invited on board to speak to the passengers, and reassure us that we were very welcome in the town, and that there was no ill will towards the tourists.  In fact, as we came to realize, our boat was in truth a lifeline for the town, which is almost entirely driven by tourism, as the gateway to Torres del Paine.  Our boat brought cargo supplies, including fresh food for the supermarkets, and fresh tourists with Chilean pesos in our pockets.  Apparently, the situation had been fairly bad earlier in the week, with the Red Cross getting involved to assist in rescuing some stranded tourists in Torres del Paine and then in the town as well.  (Note for Janet:  Again, please note the use of the past tense).

Our ferry company was actually a bit irresponsible for bringing us down in those conditions, and in how they handled it.  In fairness, such strikes happen on occasion, but always in the past have lasted 2 days and no more.  This one lasted 7 before agreement was finally reached.  (Final note for Janet:  please note that agreement has been reached:).

Somehow, even though I´ve retired from the peacemaking business for at least a while, the conflicts still seem to find me... But I do have to question the wisdom of the people´s strategy of shutting down transportation in the region and cutting off access to their own towns... doesn´t seem like a very good strategy to put your own towns under self-imposed seige.  But, that´s Chile, I guess... because it seems to have been effective.

In the end, our timing could not have been better.  We arrived Monday night just after midnight, and the strike negotiations reached a successful conclusion on Tuesday morning at 9am.  The streets were alive with celebrations for the people´s victory (a 3% increase, instead of 17%), all transportation resumed as normal, and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine re-opened.  Imagine the opportunity to see Yosemite National Park, in the peak of the summer season, with no one else yet in the park!  That´s what we´re up to in a few hours, once we get just a few last supplies for our 10-days in the back-country.

Thinking of you all, and very glad our parents did not have access to CNN Chile the last few days:)  Abrazos. . .